End "To open PluginProcess, you need a Java runtime" in Safari.

Each time my son ran Safari in his parental controlled Lion account he got this error message:

To open PluginProcess, you need a Java runtime. Would you like to install one now?

A search on this string will produce many hits, most of which are terribly misleading. So I'll add another one, which is probably also misleading.

This message comes because a "Safari" or "Internet" Plug-In ("plugin) is trying to run, and that plugin requires Java. Java used to be a part of every Mac, but Java in general, and Java in the web browser, have been an endless security nightmare. Apple, wisely, disabled Java browser plug-ins in a security update and stopped including Java in Lion and Mountain Lion. If you have the plug-in disabled in Safari you could reenable it (but don't), or if you don't have Java at all you could accept the download suggestion and install it (but don't).

Don't do that, however. No modern plugin should require Java on a Mac. This message is probably a sign that you're unwittingly running an ancient plugin that you don't want. It's particularly suspicious that you're seeing "PluginProcess" rather than the name of a specific app.

I don't know of any easy way in Safari to identify Plugins, much less the problematic ones that probably aren't running properly. (Extensions are a different beast). To eliminate this ugly prompt I had to navigate through several Library folders, deleting all I saw. Of course this will also delete desired plugins (if any exist) but you can reinstall those.

Delete everything from these folders (on the troubled account and globally) then restart and recheck:

User account: Library\Internet Plug-Ins
Root: Library\Internet Plug-Ins

I saw some gnarly old things in there.

The curse of iTunes encrypted iPhone / iOS backups: the password is NOT your device password (and how to recover it from OS X Keychain)

I've often restored iOS devices from encrypted backup, so when I swapped Emily's 20 month old shattered-screen-4S for a $200 refurb [1] I wasn't expecting any restore problems. 

When I got the password prompt I entered the 4 digit lockscreen code for the original phone it and ... iTunes said ...

The password you entered to unlock your iPhone backup was incorrect. Please try again.

My jaw dropped. How could that be? I've done this so many times ... though ... later it occurred to me that I don't usually see that password query. That was later though.

I did a lot of stuff -- though nothing stupid. For example -- I started by taking all my backups offline. That way if I messed something up I wouldn't get my backups confused. During my flails I did run into some odd behaviors with iTunes backup restore that can turn up when you end up with a backup of a device and, somehow, a backup of the same device after it's been wiped. That wasn't the problem though.

The problem was that iTunes encrypted backup passwords are NOT your device password/passcode. I knew this once, but I'd long ago forgotten and, in  serious lapse of procedure, my iTunes encrypted backup password(s) were not in 1Password. [4]

Once I realized my blunder [3] I reread Apple's tech note on iTunes iOS backups and it became clear why I and so many other [3] people go wrong (emphases mine) ...

... If an iOS device is protected with a passcode, iTunes prompts you to enter the passcode when you connect to your computer. Once you successfully enter the passcode, iTunes will recognize that device as authorized and you will not need your passcode to back up or sync ...

... In the iTunes Summary screen, select "Encrypt iPhone backup" if you want to encrypt the information stored on your computer when iTunes makes a backup. Encrypted backups are indicated by a padlock icon, and a password is required to restore the information to iPhone. ... If you use a Mac, when you set a password you can select to store the password in the keychain. With iOS 4 and later, you can transfer the iOS keychain backup to a new device if you encrypt the backup.

The trick, you see, is there are two completely different passwords/passcodes associated with backup/restore of an iOS device and iTunes (more confusing - passcode is a misnomer know that iOS can use alphanumeric screen lock passwords). One belongs to the device, the other to iTunes and a specific device backup. 

Worse, the iTunes password is normally stored in the OS X keychain. So I entered it once several years ago, and I've never seen it since. I suspect I only saw it now because the refurb device I was restoring to had a new serial number -- it didn't match the serial number in the backup folder manifest.plist that's referenced by the OS X iPhone Backup keychain entry. (See [5] for details on how to recover if you don't remember yours and stored it in OS X keychain on initial configuraiton.)

So, really, it's all perfectly understandable. It's not just that my brain is turning to sludge. Now, if you excuse me, I'm going to go whistle by a graveyard ....

- fn - 

[1] I wonder if I'll be able to unlock this refurb in two months. i couldn't find much on the topic other than what I wrote a few months ago.

[2] Since I only bother with encrypted backups so that iTunes will store my iOS keychain I used my longstanding low security junk password. Once it somehow occurred to me that the password was unrelated to any of my device passwords it occurred to me to try it.

[3] Don't think it didn't occur to me that my younger brain would have remembered this.

[4] Unbelievable glitch. I always put passwords in my FileMaker Pro database that I post to 1Password.

[5] Some techniques from Encrypt Backup Password Problem: Apple Support Communities. I was able to verify that the 2nd of these worked perfectly, though by then I knew the password.

On a mac: 1- Make sure you have a previous back-up 2- Make a new back-up of the phone in its current state 3- Go to <username>/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup 4- Find the most recent backup of your phone as well as the one you want to restore to(previous Backup). 5- Open the Manifest.plist file for each 6- Copy the value in BackupKeyBag from the new one to the one you wish to restore to. 7- Save. 8- Restore to the old backup!

or (this is the approach I tested - only works if you chose to save it in keychain)

1. Open my keychain (Applications/Utilities/Keychain Access.app) 2. Select passwords in the category section on the bottom half of the left-hand pane 3. Scroll down the list of passwords until I found iPhone Backup 4. Right click on iPhone Backup and select "Copy password to Clipboard" 5. Verify my authority to copy the password to the clipboard by responding to the prompt to type my Mac password 6. Paste the password into the iTunes promt (you could also paste the password in a text doc to see what it was)

With Mountain Lion I showed the second of these works, with this variation:

1. using Keychain Access search on 'iPhone Backup'
2. Double click to open
3. Note the Account number shown in this dialog matches the Folder name containing the backup.
4. Click "show password", enter login credentials when requested, and you can see what it was.

To identify which Account/number folder name was relevant I opened manifest.plist in folders that had the right 'last updated' value and searched for the name of my wife's iPhone.

How to view your Apple hardware purchases (purchase history) : iPhone and Mac

It took me a while to find this page again, so I think it's worth a blog post.

This My Support Profile page is the best way to view the Mac, iPhone and other hardware purchases associated with your Apple ID (AppleID).

If you have multiple Apple IDs (I have four) the purchases may be associated with one or more of them, but that's another story. We are waiting patiently for Apple to fix this problem [1].

[1] My guess is that Apple has different databases for iTunes and hardware purchases, and for hardware purchases the 'foreign-key-equivalent' is either a phone number or an email address, specifically the phone number used for "VoicePass". So when it tries to relate hardware purchases to an AppleID the relationship can have unexpected results.

Update 8/25/2013: http://store.apple.com/us/account/home now has a link to "view order history", but, weirdly, not to the My Support Profile page. Incidentally, over time all my purchases ended up on one of my Apple IDs, possibly related to updating email addresses.

Google's Calendar Sync with Mountain Lion through Yosemite Calendar.app is a flaming mess

[This is unchanged in Yosemite and I suspect is also true of El Capitan.]

This is what Mountain Lion shows as my Calendars as of August 2013 after standard setup against my Gmail account:

The accounts I see under "Google" are the set of Calendars my Gmail account has access too that are also checked in the web page that controls Google CalDAV access for iOS Calendar.app: https://calendar.google.com/calendar/syncselect

The Delegate list is what appears based on my selections in Calendar:Preferences:Accounts:Delegation, where options include ALL calendars known to Google, not just those selected in https://www.google.com/calendar/syncselect.

If I check all of the calendars in Calendar.app (Mac) I'll get duplicate entries. If I disable "delegation", which appears to be Google's undocumented recommendation I get a neat list, but any changes I make in Calendar.app do not appear in Google Calendar (sync is broken, or, if you prefer, it's "one-way" from Google to Calendar.app).

If I uncheck Calendars under the 'Google' tree in Mountain Lion Calendar.app "Calendar List" and just use the Delegates sync is more-or-less bidirectional (not broken). That's what I'm doing for now.

I once thought Google was responsible for this mess, but given Apple’s software bungling over the past 4-5 years I think it’s more likely their issue.

AT&T iPhone in Canada - 1GB 3G data and tethering with Virgin Mobile's prepaid mobile plan

Dan Frommer's Roaming Report didn't work for me. When I went to a Virgin Mobile kiosk in Windsor Ontario, shortly after crossing the post-apocalyptically cool Detroit-Windsor Tunnel, their disinterest was complete. Prepaid plans are all pain and no commission for Kiosk operators, there were "out of" prepaid cards.  I suspect forever.

I had better luck at Future Shop (update - or Best Buy). I paid $10 for a Virgin prepaid plan card, then $15+$25 at the cash register to get $40 of credit (paper slip) - knowing I'd want $30 for 1GB of data and $10 left over for a bit of voice. We used my daughter's (post-contract, legally) unlocked AT&T iPhone 4S; the Future Shop guy switched SIMs for me. (NOTE: As of 3/2014 if you buy a $25 or $50 card the balance will last 60 days, see update below.) Data purchases are monthly and always expired 30 days post purchase.

As of 8/2013 the plan showed as 35 cents/min (per minute plan) voice. The data expired after 30 days; I don't know if unused data would carry over if one bought an additional month but I doubt it.

I activated online from my hotel room. For prepaid you enter a PIN, but you don't get a Virgin account. It's all very somewhat anonymous. You will get spam so use your junk Yahoo address (you must have one). Use my.vmobile.ca to find out available data and be sure to "update your message preferences" by turning off Virgin's text spam and email spam. Be sure to write down the phone number you choose and your PIN.

During activation Virgin's web site said it didn't recognize my IMEI. That made me nervous, but I continued onwards.

WARNING: While waiting for phone activation, if you haven't set up a data plan, set your iPhone cellular data to OFF. Otherwise your phone will use data on an overage basis just with low bit background operations as soon as it activates.

It took 1 hour for the phone to activate, I don't remember seeing that one the web site or in the documentation. I'm told it can take up to 2 hours and sometimes you need to pull the SIM.

Data and tethering both worked well.

Update July 2014

Clarifying options - there are three add-on options now. As of 7/2014 cash balances take 3 months to expire with a $50 initial purchase. It can be hard to find anything but $50 cards. With the card’s cash balance you pay the Prepaid .40/min rate for voice. You can purchase add-ons  — all of which auto-renew each month and cannot be removed or reduced (only increased) from the Virgin web site. You need to phone them to change though for typical stay of < 4 weeks this doesn’t matter. Add-ons these days:

• Prepaid Data Add-On: $10/mo for 100MB, $20 for 500, $30 for 1GB. Note these are monthly, 
• Texting: $7 for 500 — this is worthwhile.
• 100 min free long distance: $10, but you still get stuck with the 40 cent/min charge. Probably not worth it.

I think the smallest ‘credit’ you can buy through a “card” or “Interac” ATM purchase is $15. We typically buy a $50 card, get 1GB for $30, 500 texts for $7 and leave rest for voice. Don’t lose your phone number and PIN. Never give Virgin anything but your junk/spam email address. If you’re from US don’t fill out the (optional) address information.

 

It pretty consistently takes 45-60 min for a phone to stop showing ‘no service’ and show Virgin. With an iPhone 5 we usually get only 3G even with an LTE SIM, but it’s pretty good 3G. US IMEIs seem to be never recognized. You need to go to Account Services and edit your profile to turn off the vast amounts of spam. Since Virgin numbers are recycled you may get a number that was previously a contract number — until that’s reset to Prepaid Account Services won’t display the correct PIN prompt — you get a password prompt instead. That took about 1 hour after the phone starts working to fix itself but I bet sometimes it takes longer.

 

If you want to keep the SIM card active then you need to remove your add-ons (phone call!) and think about when cash balances (minimum $15 purchase) expire. This is from the July 2014 agreement ...

(b) Prepaid: … Prepaid funds are valid for a specified number of days starting from the time on the day they are added to your account (“Active Period”). Unused funds will expire at the end of the Active Period. Expired Prepaid funds will be restored if you Top Up your account within 7 calendar days of their expiry. If you Top Up your account before your existing Prepaid funds expire (or are used up), then your Top Up will be added to your existing Prepaid funds and the Active Period for the Top Up will apply to the combined amount of Prepaid funds….

So, what’s the “specified number of days” you ask? That’s top-secret. My notes on a phone call say...

$15 Top Ups expire in 30 days, $25 and $50 Top Ups expire in 60 days and $100 Top Ups have an expiration period of 365 days. (A Top Up is simply a credit one buys from Future Shop and other retailers.)

Unused funds expire at the end of the Active Period unless you Top Up within 7 calendar days of their expiry. If you Top Up before hitting zero the new Active Period will apply to the combined amount of prepaid funds.

Expiration is based on the expiration date of the latest Top Up. So if your credit expires in 60 days, and you buy a $100 Top Up, expiration is 365 days, not 425. Other prepaid vendors are much better; the expiration date is sum of original remaining plus new. (If expiration is 365 days and you but a $10 Top Up what happens then? Nothing good I fear.)

If you run through your Data Plan, Virgin charges per MB overage fees until your prepaid balance is exhausted. (If you optionally associated a credit card with the prepaid plan I suspect the credit card is charged until your bank account is exhausted. I don't know if this applies to INTERAC purchases.)

If your prepaid funds expire and you do not top up for 3 months your account will completely disconnect. (It may be possible to 'reactivate', but I don't know how that works or for how long.)

FWIW, I ran through $50 cash purchase (which I thought had 60 day expiration) then added $15 and my Top-Up expiration was 30 days beyond my first anniversary date. Ok, this is indeed baroque. I found this on the prepaid purchase site, emphases and edits mine...

Prepaid funds are valid for a specified number of days starting from the time of the day they're added to your account ("Active Period").

Unused funds will expire at the end of the Active Period. Expired prepaid funds will be restored if you Top Up your account within 7 calendar days of their expiry.

If you Top Up your account before your existing prepaid funds expire (or are used up), then your Top Up will be added to your existing Prepaid funds and the Active Period for the Top Up will apply to the combined amount of prepaid funds….

… The higher the amount, the longer the available time you have to use it before it expires...

TOP UP CARDS OR CASH	TOP UP VALUE CREDIT OR DEBIT	EXPIRY (IN DAYS)
$100	$100-$200	365
$50	$50-$99	60
$25	$25-$49	60
$15	$15-$24	30
Starter Credit	$5	30

So I’m going to try this strategy since I make trips to Canada every 3 months and I have a Canadian bank account with Interac services ...

• Purchase add-ons then call next day to turn off the renewal
• Don’t put money in account until close to 3 month limit or next trip
• Depending on circumstance use Interac to put in $50 (covers a typical trip with messaging and data, I use Google Hangout for voice) or enough to bring credit over $100 and be good for a year. 

See also:

• Gordon's Notes: Americans traveling through Canada: Telecom 2013.
• Gordon's Tech: Low cost net entry for Canadians: The Virgin Mobile experience 3/2014 - Much more detail, including how to disable Virgin Mobile’s high level of text spam.

Using Calibre and DeDRM Plug-In to remove Adobe DRM from Google Play .ascm ePUB files (Update 2023)

Update 2023

After my ginormous Aperture to Photos migration I was able to move my beloved Air from Mojave to the latest macOS it can run - Monterey. Sadly that meant my original DeDRM install (below) stopped working. The good news is I was able to recreate it, but the process was not very well documented. Here are a few tips that might be useful -- though the big tip is that it can be done. These directions are for Monterey but they apply to Sonoma as well. I'm only reviewing use to remove Adobe DRM from Google Play books.

You need: DeDRM Tools and the appropriate version of Calibre and Adobe Digital Editions. I had saved my my .der (Adobe DRM Certificate file) from Mojave and so I can't add add anything about getting the .der cert; see the cryptic references from 2013 below.

There's no longer a standalone DeDRM app, you can't drag and drop to remove the DRM. You have to use Calibre.

Install Calibre first then install the DeDRM plugin. Read the sparse directions carefully. You don't need the Obok plugin for Adobe DRM ePub.

I haven't found any UI for the DeDRM plugin. If you view Calibre/preferences/plugins/DeDRM you can see configuration for Adobe Digital Editions books (click option to "Show only user installed plugins" so you can easily see the DeDRM plugin). My DeDRM plugin configuration used default_key but I did import my saved .der file; it said it was already saved.

Once you've followed the obscure directions to download a .ascm file and then get the DRMd ePub in Adobe Digital Editions (see 2013, it hasn't changed!) you can import it into Calibre. If you can view the ePub in Calibre's reader the DRM is gone. Do view it there first, it might trigger the DRM removal.

Right click on the ePUB in Calibre then choose "Open book folder". You should see a file with the suffix .epub that can now be opened in Books.app. Test it there and then save it to your ePub library (I use folders). I think sometimes you can see an additional file with the suffix original_epub. It will still be DRMd.

Original 2013

I previously wrote EPUB and DeDRM: Why Google Play Store is the best eBookStore for iBooks fans. (Bonus: Fixing Adobe Digital Edition crash.), but my efforts to put the books I own on my personal device were frustrated when it turned out all of my Google Play books were DRM free. So I could easily put the ePUBs in Google Drive, upload to Google Play and drop them into iTunes for use on my iPhone.

Today I purchased a genuine Google Play Adobe Editions DRMd book. I was able to remove the Adobe DRM and open it in iBooks on my iPhone. So it's doable - barely. I fear, however, that my app.net friends who think this is an easy solution to eBook DRM problems are operating on a higher plain than I. DRM removal is not the answer to flat (soon falling?) eBook sales. iTunes music style DRM (signed files) is the answer.

I'm not sure I can quite recreate all the steps, but these tips may help Mountain Lion users. Use them while you read and reread Apprentice Alf's guide. 

Downloads

You need to download the following apps and install the first two.

1. Adobe Digital Edition
2. Calibre
3. The limelinx tools (includes the DeDRM app but, most importantly, the DeDRM_calibre plugin)

Configuration

1. Download your ePub from Google Apps. This process is very cryptic (I think Google wants us to stop downloading these.) Mouseover your book in Play, look for a strange faint dashed line icon, click it to get the download option. You will download a .ascm file.
2. Launch Adobe Digital Edition and register yourself with Adobe. Open your .ascm file in ADE, observe that an ePub file is now saved to Documents/Digital Editions. Note that carefully.
3. Launch Calibre and then carefully follow the directions for installing  DeDRM_plugin.zip into Calibre. Note that Calibre has changed a bit since the directions were written so some interpretation may be needed.
4. The directions say: "On Macintosh and Windows systems no customization is required for ebooks from Kindle for Mac/PC or Adobe Digital Editions (ADE), provided that calibre is run on the same computer and user account as the installation of Kindle for Mac/PC or ADE to which the books were downloaded. The default key is found and stored in the preferences automatically. " This did not work for me. I had to follow the configuration steps, which are cryptic. I clicked on DeDRM then clicked the customize button the configuration for "Adobe Digital Editions eBooks", then click on the green + to get "default_key". Ignore "Import Existing Keyfiles". Then restart Calibre.

Import book into Calibre, save ePUB to desktop.

1. Now, using Calibre, import the ePub file saved in Documents/Digital Editions.
2. You should be able to to Save Only ePub format to disk. The ePUB produced at that point is DRM free (or was in my case).

Using DeDRM app

 

Prior to using Calibre I'd tried DeDRM.app unsuccessfully; it didn't have a key (".der file") and couldn't find one. After I'd gotten the Calibre process working I tried DeDRM again and it had the "default_key". I ran it again the Documents/Digital Editions ePub and it told me the DRM was removed. This is a much easier process than using Calibre; perhaps there is a shortcut to get directly to this step. Going forward I expect to use DeDRM.app.

 

Incidentally, the Alf site warns that commercial "DeDRM" apps are wrapped copies of the DeDRM code. I believe that's true.

 

Update 3/27/2014:After I got the default_key working I can simply use DeDRM to remove ePUB DRM. The configuration process creates a .der file that is stored in /Users/YourUserName/Library/Preferences/com.apprenticealf.dedrm. That .der file can be added to a new DeDrm.app install through simple setup — it’s the output of the complex process described above.

Using Automator to create a plaintext list of upcoming events from OS X Calendar.app

This isn't the Using AppleScript to create a plaintext list of upcoming events from OS X Calendar.app solution I want (much less something built into Calendar.app), and it's not necessarily better than How to get a reasonable plaintext listing of calendar events using Google Calendar or OS X Calendar.app, but this Automator solution was pretty easy to put together.

It's not so easy to share though, one of the weird things about Automator is how hard it is to share a set of steps. Here's a screenshot that gives the gist of it:

The output is clunky, but I've seen worse:

...

EVENT 16 OF 18
Summary: bdfafdf
Status: none
Date: 8/24/13 to 8/25/13
Time: 12:00:00 AM to 12:00:00 AM
Location: 
Notes:

...

See also:

• Automate Just About Anything on Your Mac, No Coding Required 2010
• Automator on Lifehacker
• Mac 101: Automator nice intro by Apple
• Mac OS X Automation: Automator oddball semi-Apple site