Total Commander - home
Now I'm uncovering an array of these clones. And, if I type a few names into Google, I start discovering more of them.
This one is a tiny executable. It's a text mode windows program, so a bit ugly by modern aesthetics. Very fast. It does have the Norton Change Directory feature I need, though again that's not pretty. The desktop integration is a bit odd -- I don't see an obvious quick key to get to the desktop though it is a menu option.
It's not as elegant as the original, but it might work. I'm starting to get a list of the alternatives.